What was that?

Everyday at about 11:59am a loud cannon goes off that is heard throughout Nice. It's sound is undeniable. For the first few days we ignored it but then our curiosity got the better of us. Apparently back in 1861 to respect the military tradition of the 'midday cannon shot', Sir Thomas Coventry-More, a Scottish visitor paid to have a cannon set up on Castle Hill.  Legend has it that he used the cannon shot as a way of notifying his wife that he would be home for lunch soon and that was her cue to make sure that lunch was ready. In 1875, the city of Nice decreed that the cannon would continue to be sounded as a way to remind it's citizens of the importance of taking a break from their workday to enjoy and share a meal with friends and family.   There goes that cannon....sorry I gotta run and get lunch ready before Nancy gets home! 

Bon appetite 
Sal 

London

We were in London this weekend and we were all blown away by what a dynamic and brilliant (pronounced with an english accent) city it is. Last time I was there I was 23 and my memories had largely faded or I was too inebriated to remember much.  If truth be told, I didn't have any burning desire to return to London and was there for a StoneWood "business" meeting. While it has become a major financial center and has undergone a "renaissance" of sorts over the past 20 years, I naively didn't put it in the same class as cities such as New York, Paris, Rome etc. I stand corrected and we can't wait to go back. There are simply too many things to do and see that we were all disappointed that the weekend ended so quickly and we had to return "home" to Nice. 

Busted in London!!

We stayed in Covent Garden close to the theatre district and exhausted ourselves with all the walking we did, which is the best way to explore any city.  It seemed like the entire city was out and about the entire weekend.  A sea of people everywhere, Brits and tourists out shopping, sightseeing, sitting in Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus, going to or coming from the theater etc etc.  Like Tim Hortons or Starbucks back home, pubs are everywhere and are bursting at the seams with people relaxing and enjoying a pint ..... or 3 with friends.  Each junction (I had no idea what a junction was before this weekend) came alive with black cabs, double decker buses, cyclists and pedestrians converging at once with each knowing their role - organized chaos of sorts.  No matter the time of day or whether we were walking to the theatre to watch Oliver or Lion King, walking along the Thames through the market in Borough or Covent Garden, visiting Tower Bridge or Tower of London to see the Crown Jewels or Parliament Square to stare in amazement of Westminister Abbey, Big Ben or Winston Churchill's Cabinet War Rooms or walking along the Mall to Buckingham Palace people were literally everywhere despite the cold (14C), often rainy weather.  

A typical pub with people enjoying a pint...

Mr. Bean on set in front of Buckingham Palace

While the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace was cancelled friday, Nancy and the girls (I had an all day meeting) were fortunate to take a tour of the state rooms in the Palace which by all accounts was the highlight of the trip for the girls and Nancy. 

As for my highlight, I simply enjoyed the high I got from walking, camera in hand, with Nancy and the kids (seeing their bright expressions), exploring and taking in all that London has to offer.... its royal history and architecture, black cabs and double decker buses, red telephone booths, theater and pubs and so much, much more.  We were pleasantly surprised to be received so warmly by the Brits, whether it was to stop and give us directions (which we needed often) or to offer restaurant recommendations, they were always willing to stop and help and wish us a good stay. 

Visiting a city like London really brings home what a "young" and modern country Canada is and the very orderly and organized city we live in. It definitely made us feel like we were missing out on something. Despite the awe we felt when walking around the city, which has so much to offer, we were happy to return to the sun and blue sky as we approached the Nice airport. 

Cheers Mate!!

Sal

Calling the Queen!

Standing Proud

A Priceless Smile!!

Watching buskers

Micheline

While the size and variety of offerings at Cours Saleya market draws most of the attention, the simple and understated charm of the daily fish market in Place Saint-Francois holds considerable appeal.  Also located in the old town, a visit to buy fresh fish has become a bi-weekly outing for me. 

Looking down on Cours Saleya Flower Market

Apart from the array of daily fresh fish, this market draws me to it for two reasons.  The first is that it brings back so many fond memories of the fish market I would go to with my dad and my grandmother, nonna Maria, when I was a child and we visited Italy in dad’s home town of Pozzuoli, next to Naples on the Mediterranean.   I find delight in the smells, sights and sounds of the fish market as happy memories stream back.   Flies and wasps buzzing about, seagulls feverishly squawking as they battle one another for the fresh scraps of fish innards tossed aside by the vendors.

Bon Appétit!!

The other reason I am drawn to this market is Micheline, a diminutive, early to mid-70ish year old woman who’s chiselled and weathered face attests to the early mornings and hard work she has undoubtedly endured over the years.  

Today Micheline greets me with her usual wide-eyed grin and blows a kiss my way when she sees me.  She is one of 3 vendors at this market and her unkept appearance and crooked, stained teeth makes clear that she has more important things to worry about than her appearance.   She is delightfully full of piss and vinegar and has a youthful spirit that belies her age.   Her zest for life and the energy with which she seems to go about her work overshadow her dishevelled appearance and seems to draw people to her.   She humours me by agreeing to pose for the camera but not before getting my assurance that her picture won’t appear on some illicit  website.

Micheline

On my first visit she justifiably looked at me with an impatient annoyance and scowled at me when I ask if the fish was fresh.   Today when I ask her what’s good she quips in her unbashful way that “naturalemente monsieur, je suis bonne” which brings hearty laughter by all inspecting today’s offerings.   Unsure what Nancy and the girls might enjoy for dinner, Micheline points to a large slab of fish which I mistakingly refer to as tuna.  She holds a 3 foot knife or better yet sword (no joke) used to cut large fish and pointing it at me enlightens me that it’s sword fish as she continues to mumble under her breath…."another dumb foreigner"!!!   I settle on red snapper and whole calamari which I politely decline her offer to clean wanting instead to prolong the memories and clean the squid myself as dad showed me. 

Bon appétit mes amis,

Sal

Tea with the Queen?

In a few days we are going to visit London which is located in England. We are going there because dad has a meeting on the 24^th which happens to be my birthday. I am very excited to go! We will be visiting a lot of famous places such as The Globe Theatre, London Bridge, and Buckingham Palace. In addition to all the exciting things we have planned mom has also decided to take Simona and I to a show the night of my birthday!  We are going to watch Oliver.  Have fun working dad J!!

I decided to do some research on Buckingham Palace because I am looking forward to visiting it.   I was hoping to have tea with the Queen so I could practice my English accent but unfortunately the Queen is not going to be there.

Hope you enjoy these cool facts about the Palace.

Buckingham Palace is located in London, England.  The Queen of England (Queen Elizabeth) lives in the Palace.   The Palace has 1,514 doors, 760 windows and is exactly 108 meters across the front, 120 meters deep and 24 meters high.   It has 775 rooms which includes 19 state rooms, 52 royal guest rooms, 188 staff rooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms.   The total floor area is more than 77,000 square meters. 

George III bought Buckingham House for his wife Queen Charlotte in 1761 and it became known as the Queen’s house.   Out of George’s 15 kids, 14 were born in the house.   Buckingham House was transformed into Buckingham Palace in the 1820s by architect John Nash for George IV. 

Speak to you when we get back from London.

Ta Ta ….. Madeleine

School

Sofia & I

When people asked me what I was most worried about before leaving for France, I didn’t say school.   As the days got closer to school I wondered if I’d make any friends.  Would I be accepted, would I fit in?   On the first day I already met Sofia, Fanny, Eglantine (who my dad calls Eggplantine).   How different would it be from school at St Clements?   What would it be like going to school with boys?

I go to a school called Rolland Garros, located on a hill overlooking the sea and the city.   Rolland Garros was the first Frenchman to ever cross the Mediterranean sea by plane. 

School Yard Overlooking Nice

Many things about my school in Nice are different than my school back home. For example, my schools’ tiny washroom stalls only contain a toilet. Not even any toilet paper which I must bring from home each day.   As well there are no lockers.   I wondered what I would do with all my stuff.  The principal then explained to me that I don’t leave anything at school. I only bring the things I need for the classes I have that day. I use my knapsack as my locker. I carry everything around from class to class.

It’s hard enough speaking French all day.    Each student in grade 6 has the choice of taking English or German.   Naturally, I wasn’t going to study English so I’ve decided to take German since it is probably the only opportunity I may get to study it.  

One of the things I enjoy most about school is cantine which back home we call cafeteria lunch.  There is always an appetizer, a main course and then dessert.   Some of the meals have been spaghetti with meat sauce, salmon and mushrooms, or polenta and meat.  The delicious French and Italian food is always the highlight of my day.

Cantine with Parents & Pals

Got to go to school now…. until next time.

Simona

Time

We've been here just two weeks and it already is starting to feel somewhat like home. It's funny how quickly we adapt to our sorroundings. I remember thinking it would be impossible to get by without our super size washing machine back home and without a clothes dryer, which like many apartments here, ours is lacking.  We somehow don't have as much laundry piling up here and hanging clothes out on the balcony and letting them dry in the sun seems so natural.

This morning after dropping Maddy off at school for 8:30, I took a long walk along the Promenade Des Anglais, it was another beautiful sunny day. Already there were many locals sunbathing and swimming. There were many silver haired seniors swimming peacefully in the sparkling calm water. I couldn't help but think that they had discovered the fountain of youth in their daily ritual.

There are many examples of  a slower pace  in  just the couple weeks of observation. The French here seem to take the time to enjoy their day. They make time for foreigners and for each other. Whether it's to help a foreign family struggling with a daunting list of school supplies in the local department store or the middle-aged men who stop their bicycles to greet each other with a kiss.   Sal and I couldn't help notice how our contact at the bank greeted each of his colleagues with a kiss to welcome them back from their summer vacances.

The cafes and restaurants seem full at all times of the day, with plenty of locals enjoying long lunches and coffees. Some look like stay at home moms , some are retired, but many are men and women in business attire. This system seems to somehow work for them, maybe it makes them more patient .

At the Nice Festival last weekend, locals had no problem waiting up to an hour in long line ups for moules et frites (mussels and fries) a northern France specialty we're told.  As Simona and Maddy begged to try them , I grudgingly stood in line, instinctively checking my watch as the Nicoises ahead and behind me seemed not to be bothered much by the wait. 

I am enjoying the slow down.  I look forward to picking up Maddy from school at 11:30 and enjoying a 2 hour lunch with  her everyday.  While I recognize it's only been two weeks and I may feel differently in a few months, I am in no rush to go anywhere just yet.

A la prochaine,
Nancy

Enjoying Moules e frites

Zigging and Zagging....

Zigging and Zagging…..

After 10 days of clear blue skies and dry sunny days the clouds bring some welcome relief.   The light rain seems to cleanse the air and as I head west along Pastorelli and south on rue Alberti it feels great to finally get some exercise.  I'm excited, giddy in a childlike way, as I jog towards the Vieux Ville.  I'm headed for the Prom which seems like the ideal setting for a jog along the waters edge.   Even on overcast days it seems that the sky smiles down upon this city. 

Delightful.... N'est pas?? 

Le Vieux Ville invites me in to detour through it and I can't resist the temptation.  I zig and zag, in through one "street" and up some steps.   A quick left along a busy alleyway cluttered with merchant's offerings neatly arranged outside their magasins.  My senses are on heightened alert, tourists and locals alike fill each nook and cranny as I bob and weave my way through the spider web of the old city.   It is amazing how busy it is....a sea of people going about their daily activities and routines.   Surely it can't be just tourists I think to myself.   It’s September!!  Don't the Nicois work?  

Fun at the Fountain

Soon I arrive at the graceful fountain in front of the place Palais de Justice where just a few days earlier our girls along with other children lost themselves in a playful bubble fight courtesy of some prankster who filled the fountain with soap.   I cross the square, jog through Cour Saleya and under the arches out onto the wide expanse of the Promenade des Anglais.   I head west in the direction of Cannes and St. Tropez and to my left the Mediterranean lazily ripples to shore.   To my right cars and Vespas entertain me as they whiz by to who knows where.   As usual the Prom is bustling with humanity.   Young and not so young alike - jogging, biking, rollerblading and meandering, some hand in hand or arm in arm simply enjoying a stroll.

   

In the distance the majesty of the Hotel Negresco with its pink coloured cupola adorned by a green crown encourages me to visit.  My lungs inhale the salty sea breeze and I am energized by the beauty and grandeur of it all.   Few spots epitomize Nice or for that matter the joie de vivre of the Cote Azur more than the Prom.   Passing the Negresco I glance at my watch....25 minutes before Simona is out from school.   I turn back and pick up the pace.   The dull aching in my knees is muted by the beauty around me.  Soon I'm headed north towards Place Massena and the stately salmon coloured buildings that envelope the square.   The elegance is unmistakable!!  Place Massena provides a magnetic focal point for the city at any time of the day.   

I veer north along Jean Medecin and it too is a sea of people, cafes brimming with smiling faces.   People eating, drinking and doing what the French do with such verve and passion - simply taking a break to enjoy life and..... a cigarette!   I'm amazed at how many people smoke here.   My pace slows as I round the corner onto Dubouchage and pick my way through all the pedestrians.   Dubouchage is one of my favourite streets. Just north and parallel to Pastorelli where we live, it is one of those wide avenues lined with regal Belle Epoch residences which gives the street a sense of purpose and importance.  The old chene (oak) and towering palm trees create a sheltering canopy of lush foliage.   I will my tired legs up Boulevard Cimiez, a long and steady climb north to Simona's school.   Arriving with a few minutes to spare, panting and sweaty, I am welcomed by Simona's bright smile.  She says goodbye to a school mate and we enjoy our walk home sharing the events of our day.   I realize how lucky I am!!

Abientot mes amis!

Sal

My First Day at School

Elizabeth opened the door and I hear people screaming.   I don’t  know why.   Are they happy to be back at school? … If they are why?  Before heading in I say bye to Simona and dad.  Mom comes in with me as I head to the play ground. When I get to the play ground the first thing I see is washroom stalls …. ewwwwwww..... washrooms out side don't they know it’s a public area?  The classes are in groups I finally find my class and I meet my teacher… or should I say Maitresse.  See in France they call their teachers by Maitresse or Madame. I say bye to mom and I think in my head, can't she just do 1 more year of school with me? We head into our class room and find our desks ughhhh I m right at the back!

The Maitresse starts speaking and I can't understand anything.   All I can hear is @#&*()Y*&%%$$%#.  I mean it doesn't make any sense.  Whenever the teacher asks questions,  I don't answer but the guy next to me puts his hand up and starts yelling  "ooh ooh ..... moi moi"!   We start to pull out binders and label them. One thing I found out was that the French only write in cursive it's kinda cool.   One binder we labeled with a fountain pen.  I didn't think the ink was in so I fiddled around with it, next thing I know the ink is all over me!    La Maitresse comes over and says what's the matter? ...... at least I think that's what she said!   I didn't answer because I didn't know what she said, then she gave me a different pen.   I was so embarrassed!     

Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day!

Oh well.... thankfully its time to go home for lunch as you can see!!

Bon appétit

 

Hi Everyone, Its Maddy and this is my first Blog about my first day at school.   Hope you enjoy!!

When I arrived at school I was very nervous and when I am nervous I don’t think of anything I just feel the pain! As I waited for Elizabeth, my door holder to open the door I heard French all around me. Finally

Bring on the Greves!!

Le Port Nice par Nuit

Its friday night and I can't believe the first week is behind us.   As Nancy noted this morning as we walked Simona to her first day of school "it feels like we've been here for a lot longer than one week".   Indeed it does!!

Sitting on our balcony I spot a lonely star shining ever so brightly in the clear black sky.    A few lights keep me company as I look out across the dark still courtyard.  The air feels crisp yet comfortable.  Its amazing how mother nature innately realizes that school is about to start and the weather begins to turn even on the Cote Azur.

Its been a great first week culminating with Simona's first day of school (Maddy had her first day yesterday).  
While there were brief flickers of nervousness, the girls were generally upbeat and excited about their first day at school.   We were quite proud of how they handled it without incident.   Maddy in particular seem unfazed by the experience, as if she were returning to her normal school after summer break anxiously looking forward to seeing her friends and unwilling to smile for dads camera.  Quit it dad she seemed to say as she turned away from the lense!!   Nancy accompanied her into the school to make sure she found her class while Simona and I waited outside.   Moments later Nancy emerged telling us that Maddy told her "ok mom you can go now, I'm good" in only the way Maddy can.   Picking her up at both lunch time and after school Maddy seemed happy but contained her infectious smile.   She simply offered that she made a friend with whom she played "cache cache" in the schoolyard.

Simona started school today and while we were almost 45 minutes late getting her there, she was warmly greeted by Directeur Vidal the energetic principal who asked whether we were coming from Canada this morning as he looked at his watch and smiled.  Funny guy!!   The grade six class parents were invited to have lunch at cantine today with their children and teachers and we were amazed at how healthy and delicious the meal was.   A choice of melon or tomato and cheese salad as a starter, the most tasty salmon with a side of mixed mushrooms and potatoes followed  by the requisite french cheese and fruit all for 6 euros per person!!!   Nancy and I wondered if there was an adult version of lunches at the kids cantine we could sign up for.  Who wants to prepare lunch when 6 euros buys a lunch like that??  

Simona smiled happily as she introduced us to Sofia her new friend and teacher, Madame (I have no clue), who she easily and without hesitation spoke to in French.    We exchanged a few pleasantries with Madame who politely corrected us that she was la professeur "pas la maitresse" when we asked Simona if this was her maitresse.   Pardon Madame!!   Madame then explained that tuesday there would be a good old fashioned french greve!!   Gotta love the french.   Not even a day into the school year and the teachers were going on a one day strike next week for some grievance or other!!   I nodded my head politely and suggested that if Madame and her colleagues need to take more time off for greves over the coming year, could they at least do it on a monday or friday so we could enjoy long weekends to travel and explore this frustratingly beautiful country and beyond!!

Tomorrow we will begin exploring with a day trip to the beach at Antibes Juan Le Pins (a 20 minute train ride) before returning home to celebrate Nice's 150 years since it voted to become part of France, a loss Italy  surely still regrets.   A big fete is in the works down at the Port with live music, food and fireworks.   It should be a blast!!

A la prochaine mes amis!!

Nice's 150 Year Celebration!

Sal

Another Day of Sunshine

Day 3 and another glorious day of sunshine on the Riviera with not a cloud in the sky.  The weather has been as advertised – not a drop of rain, temperatures hovering between 30-35 Celcius with no humidity and blue skies as far as the eye can see. 

It’s been 3 busy days of running around trying to get all of the administrative aspects of moving abroad out of the way – a royal pain in the butt!!    Initially nervous and unsure what to expect, the kids now seem quite excited about their new schools after a visit yesterday and today.   Maddy will attend Rothschild Public maternelle and premaire school located 100 meters from our apartment and Simona will attend college Roland Garros about a 15 minute walk.   Meetings with the school principals today made them feel far more comfortable and less nervous as each welcomed the girls.   Simona passed a verbal French “test” that allowed her to enter the regular grade 6 class with French children as opposed to the all ages (11-15) class for foreign kids with little to no knowledge of French.   She ably answered mind numbing and puzzling questions such as “comon t’appel tu?  Ou est-ce que tu habite? and avez vous une frere ou une soeur?”  

Our 2 bedroom apartment on rue Pastorelli, is ideally located in ‘centre ville’ just off of Jean Medecin the main shopping street in the city.   It’s a great neighbourhood about an 8-10 minute walk from the Mediterranean sea and no more than a 15 to 20 minute walk from anywhere in the city.  The apartment is located on the fifth floor of a new building and it is very clean.  While a bit on the small side, it should serve us well for the month of September until we move down the street to our larger 3 bedroom apartment on rue Blacas where we will live for the remaining 9 months.   The beauty of our current apartment is the large balcony overlooking a beautiful courtyard with a southern exposure  providing energizing sunshine all day.   Now if only it was overlooking the sea!!   Eating out on the balcony with the warmth of the Mediterranean sunshine adds extra flavour to our meals.

Speaking of which it’s amazing what sunshine does to the taste of fresh fruit and vegetables!!   The tomatoes are unbelievably tasty and with a drizzle of olive oil, basilico and French bagette I can’t think of a better way to start the day.  

While it’s only been a few days, we have made it a daily ritual to walk to the Cours Saleya market to buy our fresh fruit and vegetables.   It’s too bad that the hustle and bustle of daily lives doesn’t afford us the ability to buy our food daily.   The white peaches at this time of year are so syrupy sweet that we simply can’t keep them stocked.   Initially the kids were not overly keen to try the forest/wild strawberries but with just one taste, they now eat them like candy.   They are like no strawberries we’ve ever tasted.   I can’t imagine ever again buying those over-sized, tasteless imported strawberries back home.    With the overflow of nature’s bounty it’s hard not to want to be a celebrity chef walking the market to pick out the ingredients for tonight’s meal!!    Okay I won’t get carried away!! 

Today’s trip to the market was poorly timed (or perhaps not) at 11:30…..just after spending 2 plus hours registering Simona for school.   Famished as we were we couldn’t help but indulge in a tomato focaccia and pissaladiere (cooked onion and anchiovy pizza), a Nicois staple along with a quart of strawberries and quart of raspberries.   We sat along the pedestrian walkway on the “Prom” aka Promenade des Anglais feet hanging over the wall looking out over the emerald blue sea.   The beauty and privilege of sharing such a simple lunch in such a splendid setting was not lost on any of us.  

We’ve managed to squeeze in two half days at the beach and the kids had an absolute blast swimming in the sparkling waters.   Unlike the sandy beaches of the Caribbean the rocky beaches of the Riviera need some getting used to but once splashing in the warm emerald water the rocks become a distant nuisance.   I’m not sure why I’ve often romantacized about living along the ocean and still not sure whether it will live up to what I had in mind but there is certainly something soothing about walking along the Prom looking out into the waters. 

Its 1:15am and tomorrow we have an appointment at the kids school to register them for daily lunch at the school “cantine”.   Another unnecessary expense but one the girls have once again convinced us is a worthwhile expense that will allow them to more easily integrate with the other children.   Somehow daily lunch at the beach seems more appealing than le cantine…. perhaps Nancy and I will have to make it a daily, maybe bi-weekly outing sans kids.

Bon nuite mes amis!!

Sal

Whew!! C’est Vrai??

As we taxi along the runway about to launch into air and onto our 10 month ‘avventure francais’, I feel the anxiety and stress of the past 2-3 months slowly melt away.   The pace of the past 6 months was unrelenting with all the planning, packing and lose ends to tie up.    In the seat next to me Nancy immediately dozes off for some much needed shut eye as the frenzy of the past months take over and send her into a deep slumber.    Across the aisle Simona and Maddy are busy playing games on the new iPad, oblivious to what awaits them across the Atlantic over the year ahead.   For that matter, I’m not sure I really know what to expect in the months and year ahead.   Certainly I’ve romanticized of how the year will unfold, the experiences we will share, things we will learn and do, places we will visit and people we will meet.   The thought of living in Europe and learning a new language with Nancy and the girls was always in the back of my mind.  While Nancy and I would occasionally say to one another ‘wouldn’t it be cool to…..’ but I’m not sure either of us really thought we’d actually do it.     With no one to talk to, no newspaper to read or Blackberry to keep busy with I’m left with my own thoughts about why we are off to France.   Was this some spontaneous decision based on a “mid-life crisis” (whatever that is) or was there something else? 

On so many fronts I can’t believe we actually pulled it off.  So many times over the past 6 months I battled the voices of the inner critic and doubting Thomas which kept posing all the reasons why this fantasy of living abroad for a year was foolish.   What would happen to my practice?  Would I really be able to pick up where I left off when we returned?  How would it impact Stonewood Group where I have loved working over the past 10 years?  10 years!!!!  Time flies!!   How would Nancy’s practice hold up?  Is it foolish to think that it would not be impacted no matter how great her staff is?   And how about Simona and Maddy?  Of course this would be a great life altering experience my rational voice tells me….. but what if…..   And then my mind turns to our aging parents.  What if their health fails them and they need us over the next year?   Oh sure they are independent and in great health but what if…..  

While the flight to Nice was somewhat circuitous, with stops in Washington and Frankfurt, thankfully the layovers were short and almost non-existent which made the trip a lot easier than it sounded.  The fact we flew on points and saved a bundle made it all the more pain-free.  Soon we were hovering over the sparkling, emerald waters of the Mediterranean descending upon what we imagine will be an incredible life experience.    

Join us as we spend 10 months in France…. We will do our best to share our journey by keeping a family blog.   We’d love to hear from you so please stay in touch!

Sal, Nancy, Simona and Maddy