Easter Break

St. Peter's Square

We just got back to Nice having spent Easter break in Italy. Our vacation started in Rome and finished in Positano.   I had the most fun touring the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St.Peter’s Basilica. I didn’t realize that Vatican is the world’s smallest state with its own coins, laws, security (army, fire department, police etc.) and their own king...the Pope.

Palazzo Venezia in Rome

The Sistine Chapel was my favourite building. The Popes get elected in the Chapel. Our tour guide Andrea told us that every time a new Pope must be elected there are crowds of people in Piazza St.Pietro waiting to see white smoke come out of the Sistine Chapel chimney. If the cardinals haven’t come to an agreement on the next Pope black smoke will come out of the chimney.

Enough Museums...

I really like the way the walls and ceiling were painted. In 1508 Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to paint the ceiling of the chapel. It took Michelangelo a bit over four years to paint the ceiling. The ceiling and the wall behind the alter were painted with pictures of saints and martyrs--every patch of the ceiling telling a different story from the Old Testament, like the creation of Adam and Eve.

More gelato!!

I loved looking at the ceiling because the people were three dimensional and they were popping out at you. Andrea said that because Michaelangelo was originally a sculptor, he was able to make the people look like they were statues.  After the Sistine Chapel was finished other artists learned through Michelangelo how to paint three dimensional.

Making it by the Swiss Guards

After a week of walking in and out of museums and taking pictures in front of historical monuments in Rome, I was happy to be going to Naples.  I wasn’t to sure what to expect of Naples. My dad and grandfather (who was born just outside of Naples) had told me many times that it’s chaotic, loud, dirty and now full of garbage... which it was, but that still didn’t change how much I enjoyed the city. I loved every moment of it.  I liked how it was always alive and the people were always so excited. I especially loved the Neapolitan humour, dialect, and pizza. We also spent a day in Pompeii, and since I had studied about Pompeii in history, it was neat to be there.

How do I look Maddy?

Aside from Napoli, I enjoyed visiting my grandfather’s hometown—Pozzuoli. It wasn’t nearly as big or exciting as Napoli, but I didn’t mind. We spent two days there. The first night there was a big family get together with all my dad’s cousins and my grandfather’s brother and sister that still live in Pozzuoli. I had never met this side of my family, but I was glad to know that I had more cousins.

Easter lunch in Pozzuoli

The following day was Easter which was also spent in Pozzuoli. We had a great fish lunch by the sea. For me, Pozzuoli was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.  I was really disappointed that we didn’t get to go to take a tour of Napoli underground. I guess that gives me a reason to go back.

Simona

The Pantheon

The Colosseum

It’s Palm Sunday and we are in Rome going to visit the Colosseum. The Colosseum is the biggest amphitheatre built over 2000 years ago by the Romans!!   One thing that caught my attention was how the Colosseum was built.   The slabs of marble were not glued or cemented together they were just piled one on top of the other. Now I understand how they would build the columns but imagine how they would build the arches.  I learned from our tour guide that they had to cut the slabs of marble at certain angles and put them together like a puzzle so that each piece of marble would stay in place.

Roman Forum

Inside the theatre the Romans sat according to their social class to watch games, plays, animal hunts and executions.  For example, the emperor and other important people sat at the bottom closest to the stage and women had to STAND at the very top if they wanted to watch the games – poor them! The games would usually include gladiators vs. gladiators, or gladiators vs. animals. Our tour guide told us that the animals came from as far away as Africa and Asia. 

Colosseum

The different animals included: giraffes, elephants, hippos, crocodiles, bears, lions, etc... We got to see where the elephant entrance was.  Cellars were located under the arena packed with food, costumes, animals, weapons and 28 elevators that would lead up to the arena. The Colosseum held 50,000-80,000 people and the shows went on 300 days/year for 400 years.

My favourite part of visiting Rome was our visit to the Colosseum and learning about it. 

Just in case I didn’t get enough of Roman ruins in Rome, we then went to Pompeii to see a lot more……how interesting! 

Maddy 

In front of Trevi Fountain

Ahhh - In front of the Spanish Steps

Pompei with Vesuvius in the background

What a way to die!

When's this over?

Inside of the Pantheon

Naples - An Enigma!

Galleria Umberto

Old and dirty, crazy and chaotic. Corruption, social decay and disorder abound.  Italy’s second largest city and its most densely populated.  With just under 5 million people crammed into a small geographic area, Naples once the wealthiest of the Italian states and capital of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (before unification) might now be described as an urban jungle, a bordello where survival of the fittest rules the day.  Naples is all this yet so much more – an enigma that at once draws and repels (for me anyway).

Narrow 'streets' of Naples

Now for the disclaimer, my dad was born in Pozzuoli a town of just under 100k people right next to Naples so I have a naturally built in bias for the city notwithstanding all of it's warts and drawbacks.  While mom was born in Puglia my siblings and I always responded ‘Napoli’ when asked what part of Italy we were from.   My childhood memories of Italy were largely based on visits to the Naples area to visit my paternal grandmother and cousins.  We grew up with a healthy diet of Neapolitan music famous throughout the world and were exposed to the theatrical and comical brilliance of Antonio de Curtis, known throughout Italy simply by his stage name, Toto.

Chaos of Pignasecca

Last time I was in Naples was about 25 years ago for a one day visit by myself.  It was old and chaotic back then but without all the garbage. I have fond memories of meeting and hanging out with a group of similarly aged guys peddling dress shirts (who knows where they came from) along Via Toledo also known as Via Roma (think Yonge Street on steroids). With an acoustic guitar they kept 'O Canadese' entertained all day singing Pino Daniele jazz classics.

Eating raw mussels in Pignasecca - aghh

After 5 tiring days in Rome I wonder what my reaction will be to the city.  I wonder whether it might have been best to avoid Naples (not a chance!).  Never having been to the city, Nancy was curious to visit even though she had her reservations based on the city’s reputation.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear a friend describe how much fun he had in Naples two years ago.   Maybe its reputation was exaggerated?

Posing with Maradona

Regardless of whatever else we might experience, I knew that the comical, entertaining and free-spirited Neapolitans we would encounter would provide another perspective by which the city might be measured.  As well, we were all looking forward to enjoy real pizza which originated in Naples in the 1700s.  Neapolitans take their pizza and coffee very seriously (and Maradona continues to be revered in a godlike fashion with shrines scattered throughout).  In fact, like Champagne or DOC wines, Neapolitan pizza is being considered for UNESCO protection by the United Nations and I am looking forward to overdosing on both.   (Unfortunately we didn’t make it to Pizzeria Da Michele which stars in Julia Roberts', 'Eat, Pray, Love' and offers only 2 types of pizza, margherita and marinara.)

Train station in  Pozzuoli

I am also looking forward to this trip because we will spend a day in Pozzuoli with my dad playing tour guide on Easter Sunday.   Having visited Nancy’s mom’s and my mom’s hometowns a few years back, Simona and Maddy were eager to see where Nonno was born and meet some of my cousins who I haven’t seen since I was a few years older than them.  To say that my dad was excited to return ‘home’ with his grandchildren (my sister and her son joined us) is a bit of an understatement. 

Dad and his siblings

A city of extremes where the wealthy line up to get into Gucci, Ferragamo, Prada and Rolex along the well maintained streets in the Chiaia neighbourhood and a few blocks over on Via Pignasecca I wonder whether we’ve just entered a bazaar in Delhi or Mumbai (not that I’ve ever been to either), a narrow ‘street’ off of Via Roma where shopkeepers and street vendors seem to crawl over one another trying to outdo one another in peddling their wares.  Whereas I was drawn and enjoyed the chaos, Nancy was repelled and was happy to get back to the Chiaia district, if not right out of town!

Renato entertaining us

A visit to Naples would be incomplete without an encounter with the Neapolitan spirit as illustrated through Renato, a ‘tour guide’ we met by chance in Piazza Plebiscito.  For over an hour, Renato in true Neapolitan form had us laughing, crying (literally) and utterly entertained reciting poetry (Toto’s classic ‘A Livella’ which talks about death which ‘levels’ all the social differences that divide us in life), providing historical context to our surroundings, serenading us with Neapolitan music and telling us jokes as he ‘practiced’ the art of ‘arrangiarsi’ (the art of getting by), without ever asking us for money.

Group shot with cousins
at the port in Pozzuoli

As a last thought, while petty theft is undoubtedly rife in Naples, I suspect that it’s a bit exaggerated based on this experience and previous experiences.  Sure take precautions, leave the diamonds behind, but we walked freely and unhindered both day and night and never felt in danger.    Sal

Posing in front of where his
hairdressing career started at
age 14

Easter Sunday in Pozzuoli

Boardwalk of Pozzuoli

    

Writing Blogs

Oh mon dieu! My dad has been pestering me to write a blog ever since we got back from Venice. I have no idea what to write about. I've been sick for the past month (and we think it might be mono), we haven't done anything exciting and he wants me to write a blog. I don't understand why writing blogs is so important to him. He says they'll be "great" memories for us when we get older.  He also wants us to improve our writing but for me, writing doesn't come easy! When I write a blog I really need to take my time to just get it right; and I'm not patient. It could take me up to two weeks to write a blog and that's just to get it started. Then I have to read and reread it and clean it up again and again. 

I can't wait for Easter break because we're going to Italy and my grandparents are coming to visit. At least after our trip I'll have something to write about. Then I won't have to hear dad bug me to write a blog for a while. Pweph...can't wait until that's over! Dad always says that there are so many things to write about..... oh yeah? " Name one thing" I ask him.  "Write a blog about how much you hate writing blogs half joking" he answers.  Okay dad here it is!!   

I guess all this complaining I've been doing about writing blogs gave me something to write about. Maybe it's not so bad. 

Going to Rome and Naples

Its Sunday afternoon and I am sitting in a bar with my dad and his "soccer friends" who are watching a game with Napoli against Bologna.  Dad wanted me to come watch a soccer game with him. Simona and mom stayed home because Simona has been missing a few days of school because she is sick. It was fun to watch dad and his friends argue over which team is the best. 

I decided to bring the iPad and write a blog.

Easter break is coming up soon and I am so excited, because we are going to Rome, Naples and, Pompeii. I am especially excited to go to Naples because my grandparents are going to be in Naples with us. 

The last time I was in Rome I was only 4 years old and I only remember the Trevi Fountain.  The Trevi Fountain is the biggest fountain in Rome. It is 85 feet high and 65 feet wide. The fountain was built in the mid-15th century and completed in 1762.  The Trevi Fountain sits in Piazza de Trevi close to Piazza Navona.  If you ever get a chance to go to Rome and see the Trevi Fountain remember to throw a coin into the fountain backwards, because if you get the coin in the fountain you are granted to come back to Rome again.    

This time when we go to Rome, we will go visit St. Peter's Basilica which is where the Pope says masses. It is supposed to be very beautiful. In Rome I have a cousin named Jennifer who came with us to Barcelona, I can't wait to see her. The night that we arrive I am going to her house for a sleepover.......I am so excited!    

I have never been to Naples but I am very excited to go. Dad tells me it's a fun and chaotic city.........and that the pizza and mozzarella di buffalo are great.    We will also visit Pompeii for one day, which should be interesting. Dad has been to Pompeii, he says that when we go we will see people covered in lava and we will also see Mt. Vesuvius which erupted in 79 A.D.  After our trip my grandparents will come back to Nice and stay with us for 3 or 4 weeks!

A suivre.... Maddy

La Charly

At the finish line

Its race day and we wait anxiously for the starter’s pistol to sound and get us on our way.  I have no idea how many cyclists there are – 700, 800, perhaps one thousand?  It really doesn’t matter, its just fun being here feeding off the energy.  Everybody seems to be huddled with members of their own club proudly sporting their multi-coloured club jerseys.   Back in January I joined Cavigal Cyclisme and while I decided to wear my new Charly B jersey, I too am huddled with many of the cycling friends who have welcomed and embraced me over the past months.

I stand chatting with Bruno who’s chomping at the bit and doesn’t conceal his objective.  Placing third last year was great but simply making it onto the podium won’t cut it this year.  Bruno wants to win!!  There is no money or other prizes but bragging rights are at stake.  As for me, I just want to complete the event and enjoy the day.  I have no idea how long it will take and set no expectations.  Unfortunately Eric injured himself 2 weeks ago and isn’t able to participate.   I will have to find others to pace myself with and share the work. 

Getting her hooked early

Having done harder rides during training, the ride itself isn’t so taxing with no climb exceeding 663 meters.  My biggest concern is staying on my saddle.  I've witnessed a few wipe-outs and having no experience riding in large packs I don’t enjoy being boxed-in by other riders.  It’s  not the climbs that I find difficult today but the descents.  I am terrified snaking down these hills, not knowing what’s coming around the corner.   One small mistake, a stone, pot-hole, sharp turn, a rider in front of me losing control and …..   No matter how fast I propel myself, I watch as dozens upon dozens of riders fly by me at frightening speeds.  On one straight-away where I could see a good distance ahead of me I decide to let go and hit a maximum speed of 64.8km/h before fear gets the better of me and I bring it down to the mid-50s.  I ask one cyclist later in the race what speed he peaked at and totally unfazed and nonchalantly responded 84km/h!!  Yikes!!  No thanks. 

At the start line

As I cross the finish line I am happy to be greeted by Nancy and Madeleine’s bright smiles.   Simona was home sick :(.  

Sure enough Bruno finished first in an incredible time of 2h 23’ 57” with an average speed of more than 35km/h.  Bravo Bruno!!   I was happy to finish in 2h 56’ 44” placing 120^th.

Sal

Crossing the finish line

At the finish line with Bruno

Preparing Pour La Charly Berard

So much for a clear day with only a 20% chance of rain. It’s coming down pretty hard with darker clouds moving in. The forecast said 16C in Nice and while it was sunny and warm when we left and I thought I'd have enough layers on I'm wet and downright cold. My toes are usually the first to go and as we climb I wish I had my foot warmers on. We are only half way up Chateauneuf Villevielle which sits at an elevation of 663 meters. It is one of the seemingly hundreds of small villages scattered in the hills to the north, east and west of Nice. They offer a great way for cyclists to avoid the heat in the summer and there is no better way to increase the intensity of the workouts and prepare for the upcoming race season.

Not having the benefit of riding hills back in Toronto, these hills were not kind to me back in the fall and I quite despised riding them.  But like anything in life, take it slowly or as the cyclists here like to say “doucement et tranquil”, keep at it long enough and it becomes more manageable; on some level even enjoyable. 

There are 8 of us today including Bruno a 30 something year old, super fit physed teacher who literally (no exaggeration) pushed me halfway up a 5km climb back in October all the while telling me to go tranquil and at my own pace. My own pace back then was barely moving unless Bruno was pushing. Then there are 2 guys in there mid 60s and it’s such a pleasure to watch these 'old' guys cycle so effortlessly. I've ridden with so many individuals in their 60s and 70s who have been cycling for decades a few times per week and they are like old diesel locomotive trains that just keep chugging along. One guy, Richard, I rode with back in February is 73 and insists this will be his last triathlon. I could barely keep pace with him up hills. Talk about inspiration!!  As well, Magdalie has decided to join us today since she's not training. Last year she finished the year ranked 4th in France among women and is an absolutely incredible rider who I can't keep pace with when she's humming along. 

Back in early February I decided that I wanted some cycling event or 'race' I could work towards. Christian and Herve at Velo Concept, the bike shop I go to, suggested 'La Charly Berard' an annual 'race' (for lack of a better term) which takes place in the hills behind Nice on April 10th.  Today is Wednesday, a mid-week ride and half of the ride will cover a portion of the 85km course we will be riding on April 10.  Bruno and some of the other 'power' riders are out for a 'relaxed, gentle' ride of 75km of mostly hills so I am happy they let me tag along so I can continue my training. I have no idea where they find the time to leave work mid-day to ride for 3 hours but they do a few times per week!  Vive la France!  Bruno and a few others that enter amateur races almost weekly throughout spring, summer and fall typically do one ride on the weekend of 130 - 160km and another ride 'pour la recuperation' of about 75-90km. Fortunately, I don't need Bruno to push me up hills anymore and at one point as we climb he jokes that soon he may need me pushing him up hills.  Sure smart-ass! 

The top of Col de Turini
with Eric and Antoine

Last Saturday I was out with 'Antoine' (not his real name) and Eric who I've been cycling with most of the past 5-6 weeks to prepare pour 'La Charly'. It was a beautiful sunny day and an even better day for cycling, not too hot and not too cold. In fact, apart for 4-5 rain-filled ugly days in March (which couldn’t have come at a worse time given we had our friends the Quarins from Toronto visit) it’s been a great time of year to be riding with mid-day temperatures of between 14-20C. Eric is 40, works for the family plumbing supplies business and is able to get away whenever he wants while 'Antoine' 33, has been on a leave of absence from the Nice police department for some unspecified leg injury which clearly restricts his ability as a cop but somehow has no impact on his ability to cycle 3-4 days per week. Vive la.... 

Like many outings I have no idea where we are headed and with so many options it's rare to do the exact same ride twice. We head west along the ocean, turn north at Cagnes sur Mer and within 15 minutes into our outing we begin our ascent towards St Jeanette en route to Le Col de Vence via Vence. We stop at Vence to peel away some clothing, hydrate and eat an energy bar. ‘Antoine’ also warns Eric and I to pace ourselves as the climb to Le Col de Vence 'c’est dur'. It's a 9 km climb from Vence to an elevation of 963 m with an average grade of 7%.  Being the strongest rider 'Antoine' pulls away within the first 5 minutes and after about 4 km I fall behind Eric who is hoping to get to the top under 45 minutes. I'm just hoping to get to the top! 

As difficult as it is, I enjoy the solitude of riding the last 5 km on my own.  Maintaining an even comfortable pace I literally feel like I could go forever (ok I'm exaggerating but just a bit). The mountainous landscape is breathtaking with views of the valley below. Picturesque villages are scattered as far as the eye can see. The vibrant colours, sounds and intoxicating smells of spring fill my senses and give me energy.  The fragrance of flowering rosemary bushes is in the air.  With violet flowers in full bloom, wild rosemary seems to emerge from every rocky crevice. The smell of smoldering, burning garden waste and brush as always fills the air. Oddly, I love that smell. 
  

The switch-backs up Col de Braus

As much as I keep pedaling, the road seems to extend in front of me, never ending. I'm convinced that the odometer and altitude reader on my bike is malfunctioning as the kilometers and altitude seem not to budge. Soon a sign posted on the side of the road indicates Le Col de Vence 1km and within minutes I spot Antoine and Eric waiting for me at the side of the road. I arrive not knowing whether to smile or grimace.   

Next week we will tackle Col de Braus which sits at 1002 meters with it's picturesque switch-backs before descending to Sospel followed by a 24 km climb to Col de Turini at 1607 meters. Col de Turini, a mountain pass in the Alps, is a famous stage of the Monte Carlo Rally (car race) and has featured in the Tour de France in 1948, 1950 and 1975. About a 6-7 hour round trip of between 115-125km I'm cautioned to get plenty of rest the day before and bring enough nourishment. Should be fun!  Not having my camera today I will be sure to bring it next week. 


Sal

Christian & Herve at Velo Concept

Now getting back to Nice