What was that?

Everyday at about 11:59am a loud cannon goes off that is heard throughout Nice. It's sound is undeniable. For the first few days we ignored it but then our curiosity got the better of us. Apparently back in 1861 to respect the military tradition of the 'midday cannon shot', Sir Thomas Coventry-More, a Scottish visitor paid to have a cannon set up on Castle Hill.  Legend has it that he used the cannon shot as a way of notifying his wife that he would be home for lunch soon and that was her cue to make sure that lunch was ready. In 1875, the city of Nice decreed that the cannon would continue to be sounded as a way to remind it's citizens of the importance of taking a break from their workday to enjoy and share a meal with friends and family.   There goes that cannon....sorry I gotta run and get lunch ready before Nancy gets home! 

Bon appetite 
Sal 

London

We were in London this weekend and we were all blown away by what a dynamic and brilliant (pronounced with an english accent) city it is. Last time I was there I was 23 and my memories had largely faded or I was too inebriated to remember much.  If truth be told, I didn't have any burning desire to return to London and was there for a StoneWood "business" meeting. While it has become a major financial center and has undergone a "renaissance" of sorts over the past 20 years, I naively didn't put it in the same class as cities such as New York, Paris, Rome etc. I stand corrected and we can't wait to go back. There are simply too many things to do and see that we were all disappointed that the weekend ended so quickly and we had to return "home" to Nice. 

Busted in London!!

We stayed in Covent Garden close to the theatre district and exhausted ourselves with all the walking we did, which is the best way to explore any city.  It seemed like the entire city was out and about the entire weekend.  A sea of people everywhere, Brits and tourists out shopping, sightseeing, sitting in Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus, going to or coming from the theater etc etc.  Like Tim Hortons or Starbucks back home, pubs are everywhere and are bursting at the seams with people relaxing and enjoying a pint ..... or 3 with friends.  Each junction (I had no idea what a junction was before this weekend) came alive with black cabs, double decker buses, cyclists and pedestrians converging at once with each knowing their role - organized chaos of sorts.  No matter the time of day or whether we were walking to the theatre to watch Oliver or Lion King, walking along the Thames through the market in Borough or Covent Garden, visiting Tower Bridge or Tower of London to see the Crown Jewels or Parliament Square to stare in amazement of Westminister Abbey, Big Ben or Winston Churchill's Cabinet War Rooms or walking along the Mall to Buckingham Palace people were literally everywhere despite the cold (14C), often rainy weather.  

A typical pub with people enjoying a pint...

Mr. Bean on set in front of Buckingham Palace

While the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace was cancelled friday, Nancy and the girls (I had an all day meeting) were fortunate to take a tour of the state rooms in the Palace which by all accounts was the highlight of the trip for the girls and Nancy. 

As for my highlight, I simply enjoyed the high I got from walking, camera in hand, with Nancy and the kids (seeing their bright expressions), exploring and taking in all that London has to offer.... its royal history and architecture, black cabs and double decker buses, red telephone booths, theater and pubs and so much, much more.  We were pleasantly surprised to be received so warmly by the Brits, whether it was to stop and give us directions (which we needed often) or to offer restaurant recommendations, they were always willing to stop and help and wish us a good stay. 

Visiting a city like London really brings home what a "young" and modern country Canada is and the very orderly and organized city we live in. It definitely made us feel like we were missing out on something. Despite the awe we felt when walking around the city, which has so much to offer, we were happy to return to the sun and blue sky as we approached the Nice airport. 

Cheers Mate!!

Sal

Calling the Queen!

Standing Proud

A Priceless Smile!!

Watching buskers

Micheline

While the size and variety of offerings at Cours Saleya market draws most of the attention, the simple and understated charm of the daily fish market in Place Saint-Francois holds considerable appeal.  Also located in the old town, a visit to buy fresh fish has become a bi-weekly outing for me. 

Looking down on Cours Saleya Flower Market

Apart from the array of daily fresh fish, this market draws me to it for two reasons.  The first is that it brings back so many fond memories of the fish market I would go to with my dad and my grandmother, nonna Maria, when I was a child and we visited Italy in dad’s home town of Pozzuoli, next to Naples on the Mediterranean.   I find delight in the smells, sights and sounds of the fish market as happy memories stream back.   Flies and wasps buzzing about, seagulls feverishly squawking as they battle one another for the fresh scraps of fish innards tossed aside by the vendors.

Bon Appétit!!

The other reason I am drawn to this market is Micheline, a diminutive, early to mid-70ish year old woman who’s chiselled and weathered face attests to the early mornings and hard work she has undoubtedly endured over the years.  

Today Micheline greets me with her usual wide-eyed grin and blows a kiss my way when she sees me.  She is one of 3 vendors at this market and her unkept appearance and crooked, stained teeth makes clear that she has more important things to worry about than her appearance.   She is delightfully full of piss and vinegar and has a youthful spirit that belies her age.   Her zest for life and the energy with which she seems to go about her work overshadow her dishevelled appearance and seems to draw people to her.   She humours me by agreeing to pose for the camera but not before getting my assurance that her picture won’t appear on some illicit  website.

Micheline

On my first visit she justifiably looked at me with an impatient annoyance and scowled at me when I ask if the fish was fresh.   Today when I ask her what’s good she quips in her unbashful way that “naturalemente monsieur, je suis bonne” which brings hearty laughter by all inspecting today’s offerings.   Unsure what Nancy and the girls might enjoy for dinner, Micheline points to a large slab of fish which I mistakingly refer to as tuna.  She holds a 3 foot knife or better yet sword (no joke) used to cut large fish and pointing it at me enlightens me that it’s sword fish as she continues to mumble under her breath…."another dumb foreigner"!!!   I settle on red snapper and whole calamari which I politely decline her offer to clean wanting instead to prolong the memories and clean the squid myself as dad showed me. 

Bon appétit mes amis,

Sal

Tea with the Queen?

In a few days we are going to visit London which is located in England. We are going there because dad has a meeting on the 24^th which happens to be my birthday. I am very excited to go! We will be visiting a lot of famous places such as The Globe Theatre, London Bridge, and Buckingham Palace. In addition to all the exciting things we have planned mom has also decided to take Simona and I to a show the night of my birthday!  We are going to watch Oliver.  Have fun working dad J!!

I decided to do some research on Buckingham Palace because I am looking forward to visiting it.   I was hoping to have tea with the Queen so I could practice my English accent but unfortunately the Queen is not going to be there.

Hope you enjoy these cool facts about the Palace.

Buckingham Palace is located in London, England.  The Queen of England (Queen Elizabeth) lives in the Palace.   The Palace has 1,514 doors, 760 windows and is exactly 108 meters across the front, 120 meters deep and 24 meters high.   It has 775 rooms which includes 19 state rooms, 52 royal guest rooms, 188 staff rooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms.   The total floor area is more than 77,000 square meters. 

George III bought Buckingham House for his wife Queen Charlotte in 1761 and it became known as the Queen’s house.   Out of George’s 15 kids, 14 were born in the house.   Buckingham House was transformed into Buckingham Palace in the 1820s by architect John Nash for George IV. 

Speak to you when we get back from London.

Ta Ta ….. Madeleine

School

Sofia & I

When people asked me what I was most worried about before leaving for France, I didn’t say school.   As the days got closer to school I wondered if I’d make any friends.  Would I be accepted, would I fit in?   On the first day I already met Sofia, Fanny, Eglantine (who my dad calls Eggplantine).   How different would it be from school at St Clements?   What would it be like going to school with boys?

I go to a school called Rolland Garros, located on a hill overlooking the sea and the city.   Rolland Garros was the first Frenchman to ever cross the Mediterranean sea by plane. 

School Yard Overlooking Nice

Many things about my school in Nice are different than my school back home. For example, my schools’ tiny washroom stalls only contain a toilet. Not even any toilet paper which I must bring from home each day.   As well there are no lockers.   I wondered what I would do with all my stuff.  The principal then explained to me that I don’t leave anything at school. I only bring the things I need for the classes I have that day. I use my knapsack as my locker. I carry everything around from class to class.

It’s hard enough speaking French all day.    Each student in grade 6 has the choice of taking English or German.   Naturally, I wasn’t going to study English so I’ve decided to take German since it is probably the only opportunity I may get to study it.  

One of the things I enjoy most about school is cantine which back home we call cafeteria lunch.  There is always an appetizer, a main course and then dessert.   Some of the meals have been spaghetti with meat sauce, salmon and mushrooms, or polenta and meat.  The delicious French and Italian food is always the highlight of my day.

Cantine with Parents & Pals

Got to go to school now…. until next time.

Simona

Time

We've been here just two weeks and it already is starting to feel somewhat like home. It's funny how quickly we adapt to our sorroundings. I remember thinking it would be impossible to get by without our super size washing machine back home and without a clothes dryer, which like many apartments here, ours is lacking.  We somehow don't have as much laundry piling up here and hanging clothes out on the balcony and letting them dry in the sun seems so natural.

This morning after dropping Maddy off at school for 8:30, I took a long walk along the Promenade Des Anglais, it was another beautiful sunny day. Already there were many locals sunbathing and swimming. There were many silver haired seniors swimming peacefully in the sparkling calm water. I couldn't help but think that they had discovered the fountain of youth in their daily ritual.

There are many examples of  a slower pace  in  just the couple weeks of observation. The French here seem to take the time to enjoy their day. They make time for foreigners and for each other. Whether it's to help a foreign family struggling with a daunting list of school supplies in the local department store or the middle-aged men who stop their bicycles to greet each other with a kiss.   Sal and I couldn't help notice how our contact at the bank greeted each of his colleagues with a kiss to welcome them back from their summer vacances.

The cafes and restaurants seem full at all times of the day, with plenty of locals enjoying long lunches and coffees. Some look like stay at home moms , some are retired, but many are men and women in business attire. This system seems to somehow work for them, maybe it makes them more patient .

At the Nice Festival last weekend, locals had no problem waiting up to an hour in long line ups for moules et frites (mussels and fries) a northern France specialty we're told.  As Simona and Maddy begged to try them , I grudgingly stood in line, instinctively checking my watch as the Nicoises ahead and behind me seemed not to be bothered much by the wait. 

I am enjoying the slow down.  I look forward to picking up Maddy from school at 11:30 and enjoying a 2 hour lunch with  her everyday.  While I recognize it's only been two weeks and I may feel differently in a few months, I am in no rush to go anywhere just yet.

A la prochaine,
Nancy

Enjoying Moules e frites

Zigging and Zagging....

Zigging and Zagging…..

After 10 days of clear blue skies and dry sunny days the clouds bring some welcome relief.   The light rain seems to cleanse the air and as I head west along Pastorelli and south on rue Alberti it feels great to finally get some exercise.  I'm excited, giddy in a childlike way, as I jog towards the Vieux Ville.  I'm headed for the Prom which seems like the ideal setting for a jog along the waters edge.   Even on overcast days it seems that the sky smiles down upon this city. 

Delightful.... N'est pas?? 

Le Vieux Ville invites me in to detour through it and I can't resist the temptation.  I zig and zag, in through one "street" and up some steps.   A quick left along a busy alleyway cluttered with merchant's offerings neatly arranged outside their magasins.  My senses are on heightened alert, tourists and locals alike fill each nook and cranny as I bob and weave my way through the spider web of the old city.   It is amazing how busy it is....a sea of people going about their daily activities and routines.   Surely it can't be just tourists I think to myself.   It’s September!!  Don't the Nicois work?  

Fun at the Fountain

Soon I arrive at the graceful fountain in front of the place Palais de Justice where just a few days earlier our girls along with other children lost themselves in a playful bubble fight courtesy of some prankster who filled the fountain with soap.   I cross the square, jog through Cour Saleya and under the arches out onto the wide expanse of the Promenade des Anglais.   I head west in the direction of Cannes and St. Tropez and to my left the Mediterranean lazily ripples to shore.   To my right cars and Vespas entertain me as they whiz by to who knows where.   As usual the Prom is bustling with humanity.   Young and not so young alike - jogging, biking, rollerblading and meandering, some hand in hand or arm in arm simply enjoying a stroll.

   

In the distance the majesty of the Hotel Negresco with its pink coloured cupola adorned by a green crown encourages me to visit.  My lungs inhale the salty sea breeze and I am energized by the beauty and grandeur of it all.   Few spots epitomize Nice or for that matter the joie de vivre of the Cote Azur more than the Prom.   Passing the Negresco I glance at my watch....25 minutes before Simona is out from school.   I turn back and pick up the pace.   The dull aching in my knees is muted by the beauty around me.  Soon I'm headed north towards Place Massena and the stately salmon coloured buildings that envelope the square.   The elegance is unmistakable!!  Place Massena provides a magnetic focal point for the city at any time of the day.   

I veer north along Jean Medecin and it too is a sea of people, cafes brimming with smiling faces.   People eating, drinking and doing what the French do with such verve and passion - simply taking a break to enjoy life and..... a cigarette!   I'm amazed at how many people smoke here.   My pace slows as I round the corner onto Dubouchage and pick my way through all the pedestrians.   Dubouchage is one of my favourite streets. Just north and parallel to Pastorelli where we live, it is one of those wide avenues lined with regal Belle Epoch residences which gives the street a sense of purpose and importance.  The old chene (oak) and towering palm trees create a sheltering canopy of lush foliage.   I will my tired legs up Boulevard Cimiez, a long and steady climb north to Simona's school.   Arriving with a few minutes to spare, panting and sweaty, I am welcomed by Simona's bright smile.  She says goodbye to a school mate and we enjoy our walk home sharing the events of our day.   I realize how lucky I am!!

Abientot mes amis!

Sal