Hills, Those Damn Hills!!

Looking down on Nice from the hills to the north

I started doing some cycling a few weeks back and my maiden voyage was a short but panoramic 35km ride west along the moyenne Corniche to Cap Ferrat and back. Other than a steady 30 minute, 4 to 5km climb which took me about 200-300 meters above sea level, the ride is not overly difficult and was a good way to get a feel for both the roads and my legs. The views are as stunning as I remembered them when Nancy and I drove from Nice to Monaco, in 2004, stopping periodically to take in the breathtaking views below of the Mediterranean and the towns of Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Eze.

Looking down on Villefranche from my bike

I snake my way down to the sea and do a loop around the small peninsula known as Cap-Ferrat which I am warned is a favorite destination for those that can write cheques north of $5M for a second home.  I am mesmerized by the elegance, size and presence of the private villas with priceless views. Most are either gated or lined with manicured Cypress trees obstructing prying eyes such as mine. 

The following day I join Pascal who I met at the bike shop for a ride through Vallee du Loup (valley of the wolf) which he tells me would be great training for someone who has not done a lot of riding through hills. Ha I think to myself - I haven't done any hills let alone a lot!!! This is Pascal's last ride before his big 135 km race on Sunday, north of Marseille through mountains that are 2000 meters above sea level. As we make our way down into the valley we are swallowed by lush greenery, trees of all shapes and sizes, wild rosemary bushes, camomile and prickly (cactus) pears wedged between rocks. I can't help but wonder what the heck am I doing riding with this guy? Already, my legs feel like led and we haven't even started climbing yet. Maybe I should turn back now before it's too late. Surely, I will slow him down!!! Pascal assures me that with his upcoming race he has to take it easy so I'll be fine - I'm not convinced but decide to push ahead. 

My view as I approach the village of Eze

Soon we are winding our way up towards Tourrettes-sur-Loup, a typical mediaeval village of 2 to 3 thousand people perched about 500 meters above sea level to the northwest of Nice in the foothills of the Alps. It's a slow and steady 15 kilometer climb, 5 to 10 percent incline and at around the 10km point I can feel my thighs scream for mercy. Pascal attempts to distract me by pointing out the vistas below and while I sneak a peek, I keep my head down, focused on pressing ahead and committed to not stopping. My mind wanders and soon I'm imagining trailing my cycling buddies from back home as they pull me up the hill in pelaton formation. Stacy's pronouncement that "a bike will make a liar out of you" comes to mind. I wonder if Stacy has any line for these hills, damn hills!! 

We reach our destination, Tourrettes-sur-Loup and Pascal suggests a water break. I look at him thinking "good idea Einstein"!! The local market is teeming with locals buying their daily food. I quickly head over to one of the stalls and reward myself and devour some fresh fruit. 

Surprisingly, the descent back to Nice through Vence proves just as challenging with the never-ending switchbacks and hairpin turns. The roads on the way back are far steeper than on the way up and the speed of descent is frightening. My hands ache as my grip is firmly applied to the brakes for the entire way down.  The muscles in my neck and shoulders become ever so tense as I remain focused on avoiding on coming cars and flying off the edge of a cliff. In no time, we are at sea level making our way back along the waterfront to Nice having completed 65 kilometers.

As I slowly make my way home, I can't help but wish I could be sharing these rides with my cycling buddies from back home. 

Pedal hard boys!!! 

Sal