Monday, May 30, 2011

GIRO'ing - Colle delle Finestre

Cristian and Emanuele view from
their kitchen balcony
Its friday, just past 7pm and James Blunt is blaring "it's 72 degrees, zero chance of rain" as I turn off the coastal highway and head north to Torino. I'm headed to Bussoleno a small village of about 6000 inhabitants just west of Torino at the foot of the French-Italian Alps. Skiing in Briancon/Montgenevre back in February the girls and I met Cristian Miolo who lives with his wife Stefania and son Emanuele in Bussoleno and over an après ski beer he invited me to be their guest during the famous Colle delle Finestre stage of the Giro d'Italia. Its the second last leg and with 242 km likely the most grueling of this year's Giro stage before Sunday's final stage through Milan.  Unfortunately we will be gone before the Tour de France rolls through France so I decide to jump at the chance and take advantage of Cristian's generous invite. 


Tomorrow morning I will set out before noon joining thousands of other riders climb to the top of Colle delle Finestre which peaks at 2176 meters and wait for Alberto Contador and gang who should make it to the top between 4 and 5 pm.


Halfway there
From the town of Susa located in the Susa Valley, it's a 19km winding climb, with an average gradient of 9.1% and the last 8km the road is not asphalted. Barring anything unforseen, Contador is assured to win the Giro this year and after his selfless gesture in allowing former teammate Paolo Trialongo of Team Astana win today's stage he is a deserving champion. 


Made it
I thank my generous hosts and set out around 11:45am hoping to reach the top around 2:30ish. The sky is a deep, clear blue and the snow capped mountains beckon. It's a flat 8km from Bussoleno to the foot of the mountain and already streams of cyclists are making the pilgrimage. There are flags hanging everywhere from storefront windows and houses and there is a definite buzz in the air.


I immediately meet up with Tonino and Saverino 70 and 68, respectively, who left Torino (56km from the base of the mountain!!) this morning and having made it to the top in previous years this time they will sit at the bottom of the mountain to watch the racers come through.   


Crowds lining the route right at the top
A third of the way up the mountain I am struck not necessarily by the number of people which I fully expected but by the number of children many which can't be more than 10-11 that were pedaling their way higher and higher with friends and family. As well, the number of people just walking up the mountain aided by poles or sticks was very cool. 

The crowds thicken as I continue my ascent and about 300-400 meters from the summit the narrow hairpin road becomes lined with a wall of people and bikes as fans stake their positions. About 200 meters from the top I can hear loud cheers and roars coming from the crowds cheering on cyclists. I keep my head down and my legs in motion and soon I am energized by the crowd which cheers me and other cyclists along the last 40 or 50 meters across the top. 


Enjoying lunch and the view
The sun is warm, music is blaring and there is a sea of bikes and people everywhere. I treat myself to a cold beer take out a prosciutto panino from my knapsack and for 15-20 minutes I take it all in enjoying the moment. Like all great sporting or cultural events it's hard not to get caught up in the spectacle. 
My one and only pic of Contador...
and its blury....  :( 
Whether you are a fan or not is besides the point - its always fun to participate in such an event first hand.  After some obligatory photos I make my way down a 150 meters or so where the crowds are thinner, find a spot to enjoy the sun and the view and wait out the hour or so until the racers make their way through.  I savour another panino and the glass of wine Cristian insisted I take to the top to celebrate.


My view of the road below
Here comes the peleton
As I sit here I can't help but wonder if after the racers pass through I will have enough time to make it down the mountain catch a flight from Torino to London, make my way over to Wembley to buy a ticket and watch the Champions League final between Barcelona and Man United?  What a way to cap off the day - one can always dream! 


Sal





Who is this shirtless moron??
Tribute to Danilo Di Luca runner-up in 1988

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